FAQ |
|
How
deep can good metal detectors be expected to find
coins? |
This question is much easier to answer nowadays
because virtually all modern metal detectors are
'motion' or VLF discriminator types. Most of them
are also fitted, as standard, with search coils of
around 8" diameter, which is generally regarded as
the optimum size for coin hunting on sites with
moderate amounts of metallic litter. Using an
incorrect sweep-speed will also affect depth, but
the following figures are achievable with a
correctly used detector:
Nickel-Dime sized targets - 4 to 8
inches* Quarter-Half Dollar sized targets - 6
to 12 inches* Fruit jar lid sized targets - 8
to 16 inches*.
Many other factors can affect your detector's
depth, but the same factors will affect all other
detector depths. The two most important things for
you to do today are to become familiar with your
machine, and to use it at the proper sweep-speed.
*Depths vary by model, manufacturer and coil
size. |
|
Can
one detector 'do it all'?
|
Some of the better
'all purpose' detectors can make a pretty good job
of most treasure hunting assignments, but there
are certain machines specifically designed for
such tasks as underwater work and gold nugget
hunting. These specialized types are less
adaptable to general-purpose work. |
| Are detectors with lots of knobs
better than those with just a few knobs?
|
All detectors fall into one of two
classifications; 'turn on and go' or 'do it
yourself'. The first group has either a preset
ground adjust, or an automatic ground adjust. They
do not require any further adjustment by the
operator because the electronic circuitry takes
care of eliminating mineral effects. The 'do it
yourself' group usually have a multi-turn ground
adjust knob which must be set to the correct
position by the operator. Such machines are
generally capable of just a little more depth
provided they are set correctly, but they yield
much poorer results when incorrectly adjusted.
Both 'turn on and go' and 'do it yourself' units
can be very effective. |
|
What
kind of detector should be used for [a] relic
hunting and [b] coin hunting?
|
An all-purpose
detector will do both jobs, although a larger coil
might be an asset whilst relic hunting. For coin
hunting, a motion discrimination detector is
virtually essential if you wish to avoid digging
out every bit of iron you find in the ground.
Other features, such as notch discrimination,
target identification and coin depth indication
can be regarded as optional extras. |
|
What's
the difference between concentric and wide scan
coils? |
A concentric coil is
better than a wide scan coil at discriminating,
but it is much more affected by the soil you are
working in. A wide scan coil is less affected by
the soil, and can yeild superior results in areas
of high mineral concentrations such as salt water
beaches. |
|
Which
coil size is best?
|
For an all purpose
detector, the standard coil supplied with the unit
is usually the optimum size for most hunting. In
extremely littered areas, a smaller coil (4" or
7") will usually bring better results; even though
the smaller coil has less depth on coin-sized
targets, your results will be better because good
targets are less likely to be masked out by bad
targets lying next to, or over them. When
searching in relatively clean and litter free
areas, a larger coil (10.5" or 11") will usually
yield better depths and a wider area of coverage
because masking of good targets is less likely to
be a problem. |
|
How
much discrimination should I use?
|
If you are serious about finding gold rings and
gold coins, use as little discrimination as
possible. Most gold items are rejected at about
the pull-tab level of discrimination. By
eliminating pull-tabs, you are also eliminating
most gold targets. Even when using a notch
discriminator to reject pull-tabs you may lose
gold targets which have the same phase response
(or 'electronic fingerprint').
A truly serious hunter, and one who has been
successful over many years, will have dug many
pull-tabs, but that is why he has also found most
of his gold targets. With today's motion machines,
it is pretty easy to get rid of most of the iron
objects, but those iron objects could be masking
good targets beneath them. |
|
What
is the purpose of notch discrimination?
|
Notch discrimination can be used either to
reject a narrow band of targets (a notch reject),
or to respond to a narrow band of targets (a notch
accept). It is usually used to reject pull-tabs
while still finding small coins and gold target
that do not have the same response as pull-tabs.
The notch level control generates a 'window
signal' whose width is set by a small component on
the PC board. This 'notch window' can be moved up
and down the discrimination range until it
properly covers the desired range of target
response.
If the detector is being used to eliminate the
response to the pull-tabs, you must remember that
any good targets which have the same phase
response as pull-tabs, and which therefore fall
within the same window, will also be eliminated.
Such good targets consist mainly of gold items and
rings.
The 'notch accept' feature can be used to tune
the detector to a particular type of item, such as
a known type of ring. The detector will then only
find items which fall within that narrow notch
window. |
| Does using notch discrimination
cause loss of depth?
|
Yes it can cause a small loss of depth, for two
reasons. Firstly, the notch discriminator adds a
slight amount of capacitance to the normal
discriminating circuit, and this slows the
detector's response to targets. Sweep-speed then
becomes more critical when seeking deep targets,
but if the detector is used at the correct
sweep-speed, the loss of depth will not amount to
much.
Secondly, Signal strength diminishes at the top
and bottom edges of the notch window. As the
target approaches the response cut-off of the
filters used, its signal weakens. Setting the top
and bottom edges of the notch window will cause
some loss of depth on those targets. However, a
properly adjusted notch window will not cause a
great deal of depth loss. |
| How do I adjust the sensitivity
control to get maximum depth?
|
First find out which modes are affected by the
sensitivity control on your detector. Do it by
turning your machine according to the instruction
manual, and then waving a good target over the
coil with the sensitivity control set first at the
maximum, then at the minimum position. If the
detecting distance alters, then the sensitivity
control is functioning.
When using the detector on site, set the
sensitivity control as high as ground conditions
will allow you to use the machine without too many
false signals or spluttering noises. Too many
spurious signals will make hearing the weak
responses of good, but deep targets difficult.
|
|
How
does target ID work?
|
If you have any kind
of discriminating metal detector, you already own
a 'do it yourself' ID machine. By increasing the
discriminate level until the target disappears,
you can tell what the target is. This is done
automatically and very rapidly by a target ID
detector while you work. Basically, the
electronics measure the phase angle of the target
at the moment the signal occurs. It generally
takes only one pass over the target to get
accurate identification, although the earliest
models required several swings, which is why they
were know as 'pump up' ID detectors. However, on
older sites, many ancient coins and artifacts may
show as junk or reject signals. ID detectors
therefore are best suited to searching for modern
coins. |
|
Is
manual ground adjust better than fixed ground
adjust? |
A fixed or automatic
(ie factory preset) detector will always give good
performance, no matter what type of ground you are
hunting on. A manually adjusted machine may
increase the detection depth by a small amount,
but only if the adjustment is very accurately
carried out. Incorrect adjustments may give
horrendous results. For the average user, a preset
or automatic detector's performance is superior to
the results that might be obtained with an
improperly adjusted manual machine. |
|
Are
battery test readings accurate?
|
Only if the tests
are done while the batteries are delivering the
proper amount of current to the detector. Some
cheap battery testers, and even some more
expensive meters, may give erroneous results when
used to test batteries that are not delivering
current during the test. An audio test is much
more reliable since the audio circuitry loads the
battery to the detector's full power while the
test takes place. |
|
By how
much will the use of headphones increase battery
life? |
Since the speakers
in most detectors are of 8 or 16 ohms impedance,
while most detectors use a resistor of
approximately 100 to 200 ohms to limit the sound
output in the headphones, the current necessary to
drive a set of headphones is considerably smaller
than that required to drive the low impedance
speaker. Using the figures just given, a set of
headphones would increase battery life by 2 or 3
times. However, since the electronic circuitry in
the detector is always operating when the machine
is switched on, even though the detector may not
be making any noises, the savings on battery life
may not be as big as the above numbers seem to
indicate. |
| Why does my detector sometimes
detect rocks and tree roots?
|
The detection of rocks can be due either to
your detector's ground adjust not being set
correctly so that typical 'hot rocks' are ignored,
or to the rock that you have just found being a
truly positive reading mineral sample. Hot rocks
are iron ores or magnetite, which are 'negative'
with respect to normal ground signals. Their
intensities can vary considerably, which makes
setting the detector to get rid of all of them a
little tricky.
Early motion detectors usually 'beeped' at hot
rocks, but switching to all metal yielded a 'null'
response. Since the hot rock was negative in all
metal and also negative in discriminate, both
signals were the same, and the detector said 'good
target' even though it was really bad. Today, most
manufacturers set the ground adjust so that the
filtered all metal signal responds in a positive
fashion to hot rocks. Therefore, the signals are
different, so the detector doesn't beep at
negative hot rocks.
However, minerals come in many different forms,
and some of them are detectable. Tree roots can
also absorb various chemicals and end up being
electrically conductive. Sometimes, all you can do
is grin and bear it. |
|
Will
meter detectors find coins deeper than non-meter
detectors? |
Not generally. It
takes some kind of circuitry to drive the meter,
and if that circuitry has more gain than that
which drives the speaker, it may be possible to
detect deeper with the meter. But virtually all
manufacturers realize that if they can get deeper
performance, they will add the extra gain to the
audio stage as well. |
| How do I overcome interference from
other detectors when I am at a rally?
|
Interference occurs when two detectors
of similar frequencies operate in close proximity.
The nearer the frequencies, the further apart the
two detectors will interact. Crystal controlled
detectors are especially prone to this problem
because the crystals are very accurate. The only
solution in that case is to fit a 'frequency
shifter box' or to get further away from the
interfering machine. |
|
Are
'audio enchanters' any good?
|
They operate by
amplifying weak signals and attenuating strong
signals. Thus, they tend to make all signals sound
alike. They can be helpful when you are hunting in
TR discriminate, or in all metal mode, or if your
detector has an 'audio threshold'. However, on
'silent search' detectors are less effective,
though they do limit the sound in your headphones
when you pass over a piece of surface junk. This
can add to your comfort during extended search
periods. |
| What is ground canceling, and how
can I adjust my detector to the right point?
|
Think of ground canceling as being exactly the
same thing as discrimination. If your ground
control is set too low (counter-clockwise) the
detector will 'reject' the ground. If your ground
control is set too high (clockwise) the detector
will 'find' the ground by beeping as the coil
approaches the ground.
Your aim is to set the ground control so that
the detector remains neutral to the ground, or
doesn't see the ground at all. It will then detect
as deep in the ground as it does in the air. To
accomplish this, first tune the detector to a
threshold tone while holding the coil in the air.
Then lower the coil to the ground and listen. If
the threshold dies away, turn the ground control
in a clockwise direction. If the threshold tone
gets very loud, turn the ground control
counter-clockwise. Next, raise the coil, retune to
a threshold tone and repeat the above operations.
When you get it right, the sound will change very
little as you lower the coil. |
|
Why
does my detector find large deep nails and rusty
iron even when set to reject pull-tabs? |
Unfortunately, most
motion detectors can be fooled by large rusty
items, This is especially true of circular
targets, such as iron washers and steel bottle
caps. Sweeping the detector faster will help a lot
on the steel bottle caps, and it will help some on
the washers. Fortunately, large pieces of iron
will be heard as much 'broader sounding' targets
than non ferrous items in the all metal mode.
Experienced motion detector users rarely dig large
pieces of iron. |
|
Does
the moistness of the soil affect detection
depths? |
A lot of metallic
targets corrode when lying in damp soil. This can
cause the target to appear much larger than it
really is. When the soil dries out, the corrosion
may not affect the detector and the target will
seem more like its normal size. Gold doesn't
corrode in the ground, and silver doesn't corrode
nearly as much as copper, brass and bronze. Iron
and steel, of course, rust in moist ground, and
can cause some really horrendous false signals.
|
|
Is
depth sacrificed for accurate identification in a
target ID detector?
|
Virtually all target
ID detectors can find targets much deeper than
they can identify them. Discrimination only
requires one reference signal, which yields a
positive signal for good targets and a negative
one for bad targets. To identify the target
requires some very special and complex electronic
circuitry, which does not have the ability to
reach the same depth as a simple discriminator. If
manufacturers limited the depth of their ID
machines to the depth of the identifier circuit,
they would sell a lot fewer detectors. |
|
How
should I adjust the discriminate level on my
detector to achieve maximum depth?
|
For maximum depth,
set the discrimination level as low as possible.
To get the absolutely best depth, set the
discrimination level at the point where you get a
broken signal, rather than no signal at all, from
the type of object you want to reject. This will
give you some additional signal on all good
targets that are heard. |
|
By how
much, and in what ways, is a $1000.00 detector
better than a $600.00 detector?
|
The $600.00 detector
will probably have the same depth as the $1000.00
machine, but it will not have all the features of
the more expensive unit, such as a meter, depth
measuring ability, notch capability, target ID,
multiple discriminate levels, surface blanking,
and the other 'bells and whistles' that can raise
the cost of a basic machine. But unless you really
want those features, and understand that you will
consume a lot more batteries by powering them, why
pay for them? Although some manufacturers may put
less gain in their cheaper models, you should
expect to find only fewer features on your $600.00
detector. |
|
What
is the best operating frequency for finding
gold? |
Typically, most VLF
detectors, made today operate in the 5 to 15kHz
range, while gold detectors typically operate at
about 20 kHz. The increase in frequency gives a
minutely greater response to tiny bits of gold,
but the increased response to small targets
results from them having about ten times as much
gain as general purpose detectors. Increasing the
frequency much above 20kHz gives a tiny bit more
response in air tests, but the increase is lost as
soon as the target is laid on the ground. |
|
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